Landing in Auckland after a 12-hour flight, I took the shuttle to the hotel, dropped my bags, and went straight to the harbor. Auckland had plenty on offer, but this was my second visit to the city, so I decided to cross the water to Devonport — a small seaside town a 12-minute ferry ride from the downtown terminal. The contrast with the city is immediate: quieter streets, slower pace, and the kind of atmosphere that makes a good first day in a new country.
Walking Victoria Road
The first stop was Victoria Road — Devonport’s compact main street, lined with cafés, independent shops, art galleries, and a long-established chocolate shop that’s been there long enough to become part of the town’s identity. I picked up a coffee and walked slowly, with no particular agenda. It’s not a street that demands anything of you, which was exactly right for day one. The tourist infrastructure is subtle enough that the local character comes through.
Up to the Hill: North Head and Mt Victoria
A short walk brought me to the base of the hill — North Head or Mt Victoria, the two volcanic cones that give Devonport its elevated vantage point. Near the old gun emplacements at the top, children were climbing and playing on the historic fortifications with the complete indifference to history that only children can manage. It was a good sight.
Above the hill, a paraglider was making slow arcs over the water — close enough to watch properly. Gliding above that view, with the harbor spread below and the city skyline behind — it looked like a reasonable way to spend an afternoon.
From the far side of the hill, Auckland’s skyline appeared across the water. The sky was clear, the sea was bright, and the city looked exactly like itself — compact and confident on its narrow isthmus. Worth every minute of the ferry ride.
Sitting on the Grass, Doing Nothing Useful
I found a stretch of grass on the high ground and sat for a while. Rangitoto Island — a near-perfect volcanic cone — sat quietly on the horizon. The wind shifted; the light changed on the water. After 12 hours in a pressurized cabin, this was the right medicine. Not a restaurant, not a museum, not a landmark. Just sky and water and somewhere to sit.
Back in Auckland: Steinlager at Chancery Square
Back on the ferry and into the city, I found a table outside at one of the bars around Chancery Square — a small plaza in central Auckland surrounded by restaurants and bars with outdoor seating. I ordered a Steinlager, New Zealand’s standard-issue lager, which is light, cold, and exactly what you want after walking around in the sun. Drinking it outside, watching people pass, with the city settling into early evening — a perfectly simple end to day one.
Chancery Square is worth knowing about: it’s relaxed, has good options across different price points, and the outdoor seating makes it feel more like a European square than a New Zealand city center. Details in the Google Map at the top of the page.
Day 1 Summary: The Case for Not Trying Too Hard
A full Auckland city walk is coming in Day 7. For the first day — especially off the back of a long-haul flight — Devonport is the right call. It’s close, it’s easy, and it gives you a view of the city before you’re in the middle of it.
- 12 minutes by ferry from downtown Auckland
- North Head / Mt Victoria for panoramic views of the city and harbor
- Rangitoto Island visible from the hilltop
- Chancery Square for a relaxed drink or meal on the way back
- Save the full city walk for Day 7
Next up: Rotorua — sulfur in the air and geothermal everything.！
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