A personal route through Japan’s most spectacular northern island — food, nature, and onsen

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Hokkaido is unlike anywhere else in Japan. The pace is slower, the portions are bigger, the air is cleaner, and the food — the food is in a league of its own.

This 10-day route takes you from the vibrant streets of Sapporo through the nostalgic canal town of Otaru, across volcanic lakes, into steaming hot spring valleys, and out to the crystal-clear waters of Lake Shikotsu. It’s the route I’d recommend to anyone visiting Hokkaido for the first time — or the fifth.

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The Route at a Glance

Tokyo → Sapporo → Otaru → Lake Tōya → Noboribetsu → Lake Shikotsu → Shiraoi → Tokyo

Days	Destination	Highlights
Day 1–3	Sapporo	Food, culture, city exploring
Day 4–5	Otaru	Canal, seafood, cheesecake
Day 6–7	Lake Tōya	Volcanic scenery, resort onsen
Day 8	Noboribetsu	Hell Valley, hot springs
Day 8–9	Lake Shikotsu & Shiraoi	Clear water, Ainu culture
Day 10	New Chitose → Tokyo	Airport shopping, final ramen

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Getting Around

Sapporo to Otaru: JR train, approx. 30–40 minutes. Easy and scenic.

Otaru onward: A rental car is strongly recommended from Day 4. Lake Tōya, Noboribetsu, and Lake Shikotsu are all accessible by public transport, but a car gives you flexibility — especially for onsen hopping and scenic detours.

New Chitose Airport: About 40 minutes from Sapporo by train. Direct flights to Tokyo (Haneda/Narita) run frequently.

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Day 1–3: Sapporo — Food Paradise & Northern Culture

Hokkaido’s capital is the perfect place to ease into the trip. It’s a big city, but it moves at a different pace from Tokyo — more relaxed, more spacious, and utterly obsessed with food.

What to do:

• Explore Maruyama Park and Hokkaido Shrine — particularly beautiful during cherry blossom season (late April to early May)
• Walk the Sapporo Station area and Susukino district
• Browse the underground shopping malls on a rainy day

What to eat — this is the priority:

• Miso Ramen at Shingen (rich, warming, and the real deal)
• Soup Curry at Ramai — a Hokkaido specialty worth seeking out
• Kaisendon (fresh seafood rice bowl) at Nijo Market
• Genghis Khan BBQ at Yamaka — lamb grilled at the table, a Hokkaido institution
• SUN MILK soft serve — the dairy here is on another level

Where to stay:

• Modern hotels near Sapporo Station for convenience
• For a more memorable stay: ONSEN RYOKAN Yuen — a traditional hot spring ryokan that sets the tone for the rest of the trip

📖 Read my full Sapporo day-by-day guides:

Day 1: Arrival, Yuen Onsen Ryokan & Hairy Crab Dinner

Day 2: Shingen Miso Ramen, SUN MILK Soft Serve & Soup Curry

Day 3: Maruyama Park Cherry Blossoms, Sushi & Genghis Khan

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Day 4–5: Otaru — A Romantic Canal Town with the Best Seafood in Japan

Just 30–40 minutes from Sapporo by train, Otaru feels like a completely different world. Old stone warehouses line a quiet canal, street musicians play in covered arcades, and the seafood is some of the freshest you’ll find anywhere in Japan.

Highlights:

• Stroll along the Otaru Canal — especially atmospheric in the early morning or at dusk
• Uni, Ikura, and Crab bowls on Sakaimachi Street — this alone is worth the trip
• LeTAO cheesecake — a Hokkaido legend; get the double fromage
• Cherry blossoms at Tenguyama (late April to early May)
• Glass craft shops and music box stores along the main street

Otaru works well as a day trip from Sapporo, but an overnight stay lets you enjoy the harbor lights in the evening — genuinely romantic.

Where to stay:

I stayed at OMO5 Otaru by Hoshino Resort — a great location right in the heart of the city, within walking distance of the canal and Sakaimachi Street. The rooms are on the smaller side, but clean, modern, and honestly all you need for a base to explore Otaru.

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Day 6–7: Lake Tōya — Volcanic Scenery & Resort Onsen

From Otaru, head southwest by car (approx. 2–2.5 hours) to Lake Tōya — a vast caldera lake surrounded by mountains, with an island sitting perfectly in the middle.

What to expect:

• Sweeping lake views from resort hotel rooms and open-air baths
• Outdoor onsen overlooking the water — one of the best experiences on the trip
• Easy walks around the lakeside
• Lavish hotel buffets featuring Hokkaido ingredients

The pace here is deliberately slow. After the energy of Sapporo and Otaru, two nights at Lake Tōya feels genuinely restorative.

Where to stay:

I stayed at Midori no Kaze Kitayuzawa — located a bit further from Lake Tōya itself, but honestly that didn’t matter. The breakfast and dinner buffet was exceptional, and the variety of outdoor onsen was impressive — more than I expected. If your priority is eating well, soaking in great hot springs, and simply unwinding, this hotel delivers exactly that.

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Day 8: Noboribetsu — Japan’s Most Powerful Hot Springs (Day Trip)

A short drive from Lake Tōya brings you to Noboribetsu — one of Japan’s most famous onsen towns, and for good reason. The sulfur content here is extraordinary.

Don’t miss:

• Jigokudani (Hell Valley) — a steaming, sulfurous volcanic landscape that looks like another planet
• Day-use onsen at one of the large hotels — the mineral variety here (sulfur, iron, salt) is unmatched
• A walk through the town’s theatrical demon-themed streets

After the onsen, continue toward Lake Shikotsu for the night.

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Day 8 (Evening) – Day 9: Lake Shikotsu & Shiraoi — Clear Water & Ainu Culture

Lake Shikotsu

Often overlooked in favor of Tōya, Lake Shikotsu has some of the clearest water in Japan — a deep, almost surreal blue-green. The area is quieter and less developed, which is exactly the appeal.

• Riverside cafés along the Chitose River
• Kayaking on the lake (summer and autumn)
• Peaceful onsen ryokans with forest views

Where to Stay:

I stayed at Chitose Hotels Lake Shikotsu Tsuruga Resort Spa MIZU No UTA — another outstanding buffet, and the setting right on the lake is beautiful. If you can, I’d recommend upgrading to a deluxe room with a private onsen. This hotel genuinely has everything you need for a perfect night.

Shiraoi

A short drive from Lake Shikotsu is Upopoy National Ainu Museum — the first national museum dedicated to the indigenous Ainu people of Hokkaido. It opened in 2020 and is genuinely moving, well-curated, and unlike anything else on the island.

Where to stay

I stayed at Hoshino Resort KAI Poroto — and honestly, this was the best hotel I’ve ever stayed at in my life. The onsen is a dark, mineral-rich water unique to this part of Hokkaido, the room has a stunning view, and both breakfast and dinner were exceptional. If you’re going to splurge anywhere on this trip, make it here. Absolutely worth it.

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Day 10: New Chitose Airport — The Final Chapter

After nine days, the trip ends where it begins: New Chitose Airport. But don’t rush through — the airport itself is worth arriving early for.

Before you board:

• Royce’ Chocolate World — pick up fresh nama chocolate as souvenirs
• Final bowl of Sapporo ramen (yes, there are good ramen shops in the airport)
• Hokkaido soft-serve ice cream — one last time
• Local dairy products, butter cookies, and seafood snacks for friends and family

Then fly back to Tokyo with a full stomach and a long list of reasons to return.

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Practical Tips

Best time to visit:

• Spring (late April – May): Cherry blossoms in Sapporo and Otaru
• Summer (July – August): Lavender fields in Furano, outdoor activities
• Autumn (October): Fall foliage, fewer crowds
• Winter (December – February): Snow festivals, skiing, winter onsen

Budget guide (per person, per day):

• Budget: ¥8,000–12,000 (guesthouses, ramen, convenience store meals)
• Mid-range: ¥15,000–25,000 (business hotels, sit-down restaurants)
• Luxury: ¥40,000+ (resort hotels, kaiseki dinners, premium seafood)

Transportation costs:

• Tokyo–Sapporo flight: ¥10,000–25,000 (book early for the best prices)
• JR Sapporo–Otaru: approx. ¥750 one way
• Rental car from Otaru: approx. ¥5,000–8,000/day (check current rates)

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Hiro | I’ve lived in Japan, New Zealand, Europe, and North America — and I write about the places I called home. Travel blog → live-travel-log.com/en