This time, we headed to Spreewald, about an hour from Berlin by train. I’d had my eye on it for a long time ever since I saw it on a Japanese travel show.
The theme of this trip was simple: not sightseeing.
No famous punt-boat tours, no rushing from spot to spot—just retreating into a hotel deep in the forest and spending a weekend doing nothing but enjoying hot springs and good food.
By Train and Shuttle, Deeper into the Woods
From Berlin Central Station, we took the RE2 (toward Cottbus) for about an hour.
We arrived at Vetschau Station in Spreewald—whose name is often explained as “the forest of the Spree River”—and then headed to the hotel on a shuttle we had booked in advance.
Whether through the train window or after stepping out of the station, it was greenery as far as the eye could see. Even the “taste” of the air felt clearly different from the city.
A Hidden Hotel Connected to the Thermal Baths: Spreewald Thermenhotel
My stay this time was at Spreewald Thermenhotel. About 10 minutes from the station by car, it’s a modern building with a dark, minimalist exterior that seems to melt quietly into the forest.
The best part is that it’s directly connected to Spreewald Therme, the thermal bath facility. Walk through an indoor corridor and you can go straight from your room to the baths in a bathrobe—no hassle, no extra effort. You can stay in that perfectly “reset” mode the entire time.
Information: Spreewald Thermenhotel
Address: Ringchaussee 152, 03096 Burg (Spreewald), Germany
Access: From Berlin Central Station, take RE2 to Vetschau or Cottbus (about 1 hour). From either station, it’s about 15–20 minutes by taxi or bus.
Official website: spreewald-thermenhotel.de
A High-Salinity “Floating” Thermal Bath
After dropping off our luggage, we went straight to the Therme—the whole reason we came.
The water here is a saline thermal spring (Sole) drawn from about 1,350 meters underground. Because the salt concentration is high, when you relax into the water, your body gently floats—a unique sensation.
I stretched out in the pools, let the heat build slowly in the sauna, then read a book on a deck chair. Not checking the time—just that—felt like the greatest luxury.
And after the baths, of course, there was this: Czech dark beer, Krušovice. Its deep, rich flavor seeped into my warm body in the best way, and I couldn’t help letting out a satisfied sigh. Honestly—why are German and Czech beers always so good?
The Shockingly Good Breakfast Buffet
The next morning, I had a surprise waiting for me—so good I actually gasped: the breakfast buffet was on a completely different level.
First, the fruit. It looked glossy and jewel-like: watermelon, melon, figs, all kinds of berries—everything fresh, fragrant, and juicy. It completely overturned the stereotype of “German breakfast = bread, ham, and cheese,” in the best possible way.
Of course, the selection of ham and salami was also impressive—so many kinds that I gave up trying to count.
There were plenty of nuts and dried fruits too, and it was fun being able to build your own muesli. With every plate, you could feel the hotel’s concept—“wellness × good food”—coming through.
Breakfast with a View of the Forest
Breakfast was best enjoyed out on the terrace, with the greenery shimmering in front of me.
A freshly baked croissant, cheese and ham, a generous serving of fruit—and a sip of coffee. Beyond that was nothing but the quiet Spreewald forest. Birdsongs softened my shoulders without me even noticing.
Compared to racing around famous attractions, this was a far more luxurious kind of time.
Resetting Mind and Body
A one-night, two-day trip where I did “nothing.”
It was the perfect detox getaway—especially for anyone living a busy everyday life.
Next time is finally the last chapter: Cologne & Bonn, the old cities along the Rhine.
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