This time we did a 3-night, 4-day road trip along the southern side of Vancouver Island, starting from Vancouver. The route: Vancouver → Sidney → Victoria → Colwood → Sooke → Port Renfrew → Lake Cowichan → Duncan → Victoria → Vancouver.
Sidney｜A Quiet Harbour Town to Start
After a 90-minute BC Ferries crossing from Tsawwassen to Swartz Bay — car on board — the first stop was Sidney, a small, unhurried harbour town just north of Victoria.
Lunch was at The Surly Mermaid: fish and chips, seafood pasta, and a shrimp soup. Unpretentious, fresh, and exactly the right way to start a road trip. The kind of meal that sets the tone for everything that follows.
Victoria｜The Most British City in Canada
A 30-minute drive south of Sidney brings you to Victoria, the provincial capital of British Columbia. The British influence here is real — in the architecture, the pace, and the feeling of the place.
First stop: the Parliament Buildings. A grand neo-baroque structure sitting right on the Inner Harbour. Worth seeing in the late afternoon when the light is good, and apparently stunning when lit up at night.
Just across the water, the Fairmont Empress Hotel — open since 1908 — is one of those buildings you feel compelled to stand in front of, even if you have no plans to go inside. It’s become the face of Victoria for a reason.
A slow walk along the Inner Harbour, watching the ferries come and go, rounds out the afternoon. Victoria is a city that rewards taking your time.
Colwood｜A Forest Airbnb
That night we stayed at an Airbnb in the forest in Colwood, just outside Victoria. Quiet, comfortable, and completely removed from the city we’d just left. An early night before the main event the next day.
If you’re looking for a place to stay in Colwood, this is the Airbnb we used → West Hill
Sooke｜The Best Day of the Trip
From Victoria, we continued west to Sooke. This turned out to be the highlight of the entire trip.
First stop was a walk along the Rotary Pier Walkway. What we didn’t expect: dozens of people crabbing right off the dock, and actually catching them. We ended up standing there watching for a while — unexpectedly entertaining.
Hara Sushi｜A Genuine Surprise
Lunch was at Hara Sushi. In a town with very few Asian residents, we weren’t expecting much. We were completely wrong. The sushi was genuinely good — fresh, well-made, and a real surprise. One of those moments that reminds you to stop assuming.
The Artisan’s Garden｜Coffee and a Slow Afternoon
After lunch, a stop at The Artisan’s Garden Plants, Gift & Treasures — a small shop filled with plants and handmade goods. We had coffee and took our time. A local atmosphere that felt nothing like the tourist shops back in Victoria.
The Moment That Made the Whole Trip
Later, while walking along the pier near the Prestige Oceanfront Resort, a local man called out to us.
“Hey — the fishermen are about to fillet their salmon and feed the seals. You should come watch.”
We followed him to a small dock. Three fishermen had just come in off their boat. They set up at a dedicated cleaning station, worked through the salmon quickly and efficiently, set the sellable cuts aside, and threw the rest into the water.
Within seconds, a seal — maybe two — appeared at the surface. They knew exactly what was coming. The fishermen tossed the scraps. The seals caught them. Everyone went about their business like this was the most normal thing in the world.
Because for them, it was.
No performance, no crowd, no entrance fee. Just the end of a fishing run, playing out the same way it does every day. Being waved over by a stranger to witness something like that — it’s the kind of thing you can’t plan for, and can’t forget.
A short video of the moment:
West Coast Grill｜A Tower of a Burger
Dinner at West Coast Grill inside the Prestige Oceanfront Resort. A proper restaurant with a good atmosphere. I ordered fish and chips. My father ordered a burger.
When it arrived, we both just stared at it. It was stacked impossibly high. Canadian portion sizes, delivered without warning. We laughed. He ate most of it.
Sooke Airbnb｜Sea of Clouds
Our Airbnb for the night had a view of the ocean. When we pulled in and stepped out of the car, there was a sea of clouds sitting just above the water — still, layered, lit by the last of the evening light.
One of those moments you don’t plan for and can’t recreate. We stood there for a while before going inside.
If you’re looking for a place to stay in Sooke, this is the Airbnb we used → D & G’s Paradise
Day 3｜The Best Breakfast of the Trip, Then Two Lakes
Copper Room｜Caramel French Toast Worth the Drive
Morning at the Copper Room at Sooke Harbour House Hotel. I ordered the caramel French toast.
One bite in, it was clear this wasn’t a standard diner breakfast. Refined sweetness, a perfectly soft texture, made with obvious care. Nothing like the North American diner staple you might be expecting. Easily one of the best breakfasts I’ve had on any trip.
If you’re anywhere near Sooke, this breakfast alone is worth the stop.
Port Renfrew｜A Harbour, a Hammock, and a Fairy Lake
From Sooke, we drove west to Port Renfrew — the furthest point on this southern route, where the road meets the open Pacific. The small harbour here, surrounded by mountains, was unexpectedly beautiful. We walked out to the cape and took in the view.
Afterwards, coffee at Coastal Kitchen Cafe. They have hammocks outside. I spent about 30 minutes in one, half-asleep, watching the trees. No complaints.
Then, just a short drive away: Fairy Lake. You come through the forest, and suddenly there it is — a shallow, crystal-clear lake with water so transparent you can see straight to the bottom. The name makes complete sense the moment you see it. Dozens of campers had set up along the shore. The kind of place people come to and don’t want to leave.
Lake Cowichan｜Beautiful Lake, Forgettable Dinner
From Port Renfrew, we made our way to Lake Cowichan. Houses sit directly on the lakeshore here — the kind of place that makes you briefly reconsider your life choices. The lake is genuinely beautiful, framed by forest, with a park where you can sit and take it all in.
That said, there isn’t much to do beyond the lake itself.
Dinner was at The Cow Restaurant, right across the road. My parents ordered Thai noodles. It was not good. I don’t remember what I had, which probably tells you everything. Not every meal on a road trip is a winner. This is fine.
We stayed at the Riverside Inn, right on the edge of Lake Cowichan — nothing fancy, but a solid base if you’re spending the night in the area.
Day 4｜A Winery, Dim Sum, and the Ferry Home
Blue Grouse Estate Winery｜The Best Stop I Forgot to Photograph
On the drive back toward Victoria, we stopped at Blue Grouse Estate Winery. A large, modern building set against an expansive vineyard — not what you might expect to find on Vancouver Island, and better for it.
We sat on the terrace, ordered snacks, and worked through four or five tastings. The red and the rosé were the standouts. Sitting outside, looking out over the vines, with nowhere particular to be — it landed exactly right.
I didn’t take a single photo. I was too busy enjoying it.
Don Mee Victoria｜Dim Sum Done Right
Back in Victoria for lunch at Don Mee, one of the city’s most established dim sum restaurants. After the previous night’s dinner, a reset was needed. Har gow, siu mai, the classics — all done well. Victoria doesn’t get enough credit for its Chinese food.
Then the ferry back to Vancouver, and the trip was over.
If you’re interested in the northern route — Salt Spring Island, Tofino, and Ucluelet — check out this post: Vancouver Island Road Trip | 5 Days by Car: Salt Spring, Tofino, and Ucluelet
Final Thoughts｜Why the South Route Is Worth It
The highlight of this trip wasn’t any single landmark. It was everything combined — a fisherman waving us over to watch the seals, a lake that looked like it belonged in a fairy tale, a breakfast that stopped us mid-conversation, a winery we almost skipped.
That’s the point of a road trip. You stop when something looks interesting. You follow strangers to small docks. You end up somewhere you hadn’t planned on going.
The southern Vancouver Island route is less known than the north. That’s exactly why it’s worth doing.
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